The Usumacinta River forms part of the border between Guatemala and Mexico. Yaxchilan is a ruin along the river that you can only get to by boat from the Mexican border town of Frontera Corozal.
We parked our camper for the night in the grounds of the Escudo Jaguar hotel and negotiated the price for a boat ride for 7 am the next morning.
We spent the rest of the afternoon hanging around our camper, taking walks, watching monkeys play in the trees and sweating…it was hot and humid. Late in the afternoon, two young women from Germany arrived and set up sleeping hammocks near our camper. When we spoke with them, they said that they were hoping to go to the ruins but couldn’t afford a boat on their own and so were hoping to get a cheaper fare by joining a large tour group on a boat. We said that they were welcome to join us if they could negotiate a deal that suited them.
The next morning the four of us boarded the boat for the ruins. It was pretty foggy, so we had limited views on the 45 minute ride down stream. When we arrived at the site we were the only boat there. Our “captain”, Pedro, told us we had two hours to explore the ruins.
Usumacinta River, close to where we were camped.
Anna and Barbara ended up visiting a separate part of the ruins first, so it was like Derek and I had the site all to ourselves. We walked down a jungle path, rounded a corner, and there was our first view of the structures around the grand plaza.
We approached the stone walls to find that the entrance to the plaza was through a maze-like tunnel, which was quite dark. I had thrown a headlamp in my pack that morning, and was happy to have it. I handed it to Derek and made him go first. It was only a few turns until we saw light again, and emerged to this view!
Derek braving the tunnels under the pyramid.
The grand plaza of Yaxchilan
Jungle explorer.
Derek is standing at the base of this huge tree.
Important archeological artifacts still embedded in the jungle floor.
This amazing frieze was returned to the site after a mishap on the Usumacinta river in an attempt to take it to the Museum of Archeology in Mexico city in 1964. It tells of the transfer of power between two kings of Yaxchilan in 683AD.
We climbed to the “large acropolis”. The Mayans must have had strong legs…we know from the archways that they were much shorter than Derek and I, but the steps up their temples are often quite high, sometimes 16 to 18 inches.
The stairs to the acropolis.
And the temple at the top…
Derek swinging with his full weight on a jungle vine. You just can’t take all the kid out…
Crazy tree roots everywhere.
And to the smaller, later developed acropolis.
As we walked back to our boat a large group of people were signing in, and we saw about 10 more boats making their way to the site as we got back on the water. Nice timing.
Pedro slowed the boat on the ride back up stream to show us a crocodile lazing on the banks, and then again to show us some monkeys in the trees.
Apparently these crocs are not aggressive and locals swim and fish in the river without concern.
More monkeys!
Yaxchilan was a great experience, largely in part to the jungle setting. Walking around the site without another person in sight, no parking lot nearby, and only jungle sounds as a backdrop, it was easy to fantasize that we were the first discoverers of the ancient city.
The docks back at our campsite.
Wow – Yaxchilan looks fascinating. Thanks for the great pictures. I’m not convinced swimming in croc infested waters is such a great idea, but didn’t sound like you were either. Enjoy!!
We had actually asked about swimming in the river the day before, and the man we had asked didn’t recommend it. But no mention of crocs…he thought it was too dirty, but he may have wanted us to pay to swim in his pool (which didn’t look too clean to us which is why we were inquiring about the river!).
see if you can find a Ziricote tree and get a pic for me. I am curious because of the wild grain in the wood. I think you are in the right area.
Okay, I will see if I can find one!