Cape Breton Island, Part I

June 26th, 2019 – July 4th, 2019

We drove along the north shore of the mainland of Nova Scotia, making our way to Cape Breton Island. One of our first stops was a pub that had been recommended to us by a Cape Bretoner that we had met in Halifax. Besides having good food and drink, The Red Shoe Pub is a music venue located in the small town of Mabou. For those of you who are familiar with East coast musicians, the pub is owned by the award winning Rankin Family, and there is live music there almost every night of the week.

We found the pub, but there didn’t appear to be any sort of camping nearby, but we definitely wanted to spend the evening there and probably have a few beers…we went inside and asked one of the waitresses if she knew of anywhere that we could park our camper for the night. Turns out the town doesn’t mind if people park behind at the community centre right across the street…perfect!

We set up and walked around town with Piper as it was still early in the day. When we got to the pub, the place was full except for some tall stools at a ledge near the windows. We decided these seats were actually some of the best in the house as we could see over the crowd to the small stage area.

We had dinner and watched the locals as we waited for the artist to take the stage. We got talking to a young man at the table next to us. He introduced himself to us as David Rankin. “Oh, of The Rankin Family?” we asked. No, he was not related but was indeed a musician.

The one man show featured east coast songs, many that would be familiar to almost every Canadian. The singer/guitar player joked that with it being Cape Breton, you couldn’t toss a stone without hitting a musician, and we believe him. During the night a few locals got up and played or sang with him.

At one point during the show, a couple at a table of four indicated that they were from Alberta. Towards the end of the evening we approached them and told them that we too were from Alberta. They had just met the other couple at the table that night, sharing the space due to the pub being so crowded. The woman of the other couple was also a Rankin, and this time was closely related to The Rankin Family group members…..so many Rankins. It is possible that it might be hard to toss a stone in Cape Breton and not hit a Rankin.

The next day we headed north along the Cabot Trail, stopping and camping for two nights in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

One of the hikes in the National Park
We love Parks Canada red chairs…we have sat in many of them across the country.
Along the Cabot Trail
Hiking the skyline trail in Cape Breton National Park….the ocean was covered with low fog for as far as we could see.
Shortly after we took this photo the fog cleared and we saw some whales in the water far below.
Driving down into Pleasant Bay, where we did a whale watching tour.
A Northen Gannet, with its wings folded in, dive bombs into the water to catch fish. In these waters, the gannets indicate the presence of the capelin (fish) feeding on krill to whale watching tours. Where there was much krill, there are many fish that attract feeding whales, birds and seals.
Gambo Abby, a buddhist monastery, as seen from the whale watching tour boat.
Another Northern Gannet photo. We saw hundreds of them diving into the water around our boat.
And the star of the trip, a minke whale. We saw several of them on our two hour tour.
Rural seaside Cape Breton Island.

We drove a small road to the far northern end of Cape Breton to the small community of Meat Cove. The weather was pretty rainy, but we parked in a lovely location, then did a small hike to a view point.

The view from the top of the hike…our camping spot is out on the point between the two beaches in the right part of the photo….
Here’s a zoomed in photo taken from the same location showing our truck. Pretty magical…would have been even more so if it hadn’t poured rain from the time we got back to the truck until long after we had packed up to leave. It was difficult to even walk to the bathrooms due to the amount of water on the ground.
We continued around the island on the Cabot Trail.
Turn up the sound for this one…you can hear the pebbles rolling in the waves.
The road signs in Cape Breton are in English and in Gaelic.
Derek celebrated another birthday, his second on this trip. We started the morning with a nice breakfast out in Baddeck.
Piper hanging with a fierce east coast pirate.
You could see ten or twenty jelly fish off the pier in Baddeck.
For the afternoon of Derek’s birthday we did a sailing tour of the islands around Baddeck.
Alexander Graham Bell’s mansion as seen from the sailing ship. The Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck is very interesting….Mr. Bell invented so many things, a very interesting man who I plan on reading more about in the future.
Piper had no problems going sailing.
This is the ship we were on. The captain’s father built the boat in the 1970’s and then the two of them sailed it down to the Caribbean, where they lived for a few years. Our captain was about 19 years old at the time….and yes, he loved every minute of it.

That night Derek barbecued a steak for us over an open fire at a campground, where, the next day, we would take a boat tour to Bird Island….I have way too many pictures from that trip, so I will be sending out a separate post about the trip. Pretty good day for me and Piper, and a pretty good birthday for Derek.

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